Tsibiah’s Sewing School Lesson 2 Pt 2 – Sewing Machine Anatomy 101

Shalom MHNCB,

If your following this class, good to see you back again.  If your new, Shalom MHNCB Welcome to the class! If your new & need to catch up you can click here for the Class Directory.

Today’s Class will be about: Sewing Machine Anatomy.

In this sewing machine anatomy class we will be going over the anatomy of a basic sewing machine. As I explained in the previous class how not all sewing machine are the same and the different kinds of machines there are.

Now before you start sewing it’s important that you at least know what parts are where on your machine. Maybe not all the knitty gritty parts and weird words but the parts that your actually going need to know in order to use your sewing machine properly.

The Sewing Machine:

Dah, dah dahhhhhh!!!! 😦

(not all basic sewing machines look alike but if you follow along with your sewing machine and sewing machine manual, you’ll become familiar with your sewing machine)

In this class we’ll be studying the Brother JX 2517 Sewing Machine:

Front View Parts:

Sewing Machine Anatomy

  • Thread Guide: This is used when threading the machine, and when winding the thread onto the bobbin
  • Thread Take-Up Lever: The take up lever is used in threading the sewing machine and to keep the thread tension at the proper level. If the take up lever is threaded improperly, the thread will knot up and jam in the machine.
  • Thread Cutter: Pass the thread through the thread cutter to cut the thread.
  • Upper Tension-Control Dial: This  controls the tension of the upper thread. A pair of round metal disks that are housed behind a dial on the face of the machine. When you lower the presser foot, the metal disks are engaged and it is the tension’s job to evenly distribute the thread, based on the setting on the tension dial. (Don’t be afraid of the Tension Dial, this will help you maintain your sanity 😉 )
  • Presser foot: The footplate of a sewing machine that holds the fabric down onto the part that feeds it under the needle.
  • Quick-Set Bobbin Aka Bobbin Loader: This is the “house” for the bobbin the lower thread that when sewn actually creates a ‘Stitch’. (Depending on your machine the bobbin may be a Top loading bobbin or a Front loading bobbin.)
  • Accessory Compartment: This is like a little pocket that holds your machines assorted presser feet, needles, bobbins, and other little sewing machine accessories.
  • Spool Pin: A piece of plastic or metal on the top of your sewing machine near the bobbin winder. The open center of a spool of thread is placed onto the upright stick. From here the machine is threaded for sewing.
  • Bobbin winder: A small metal or plastic knob on the sewing machine that the bobbin fits onto. The bobbin winder is how you transfer thread from the spool to the bobbin.
  • Handwheel: Used to manually raise and lower the needle.(Always turn the handwheel TOWARDS you (counter clockwise) as turning it in the opposite direction (away from you, clockwise) may knock the timing out requiring repair from a service center)
  • Pattern Selection Dial: A button, dial, knob, or digital screen on the face of the sewing machine with a diagram of stitch options. Turning the knob or pressing the button allows you to choose from the variety of stitches offered by the machine.Rotate the dial in either direction to choose the stitch you want.
  • Buttonhole Fine-Adjustment Screw: When sewing buttonsholes, if the stitching on the two sides of the buttonhole does not appear uniform, adjustments can be done with this Buttonhole fine adjustment screw.
  • Reverse Sewing Lever Aka Backstitch (Button/lever): Push this lever to backstitch or stitch in reverse direction. Sewing a backstitch at the start and end of any straight stitch will ensure that the stitches stay locked in place.

 


Now you might be wondering why some machines have the Bobbin Loader on the front and others on the top:

While it’s not something you have to look for when buying a machine, you could end up with either or.


1

  • Presser foot: The footplate of a sewing machine that holds the fabric down onto the part that feeds it under the needle.
  • Bobbin Housing-Quick-Set Bobbin Aka Bobbin Loader: This is the “house” for the bobbin the lower thread that when sewn actually creates a ‘Stitch’. (Depending on your machine the bobbin may be a Top loading bobbin or a Front loading bobbin.)
  • Throat plate: is the metal plate beneath a sewing machine’s needle and presser foot. It is typically held in place with one or more screws.

Right Side View:Tsibiah's Sewing School Pt. 2 - Sewing Machine Anatomy 101 - An Israelite Seamstress

  • Main power and sewing light switch: You can turn the main power and sewing light switch on and off.
  • Foot controller jack / socket: Plug in the foot controller plug and connect the machine to the power supply.

Pedal / Foot controller: The pedal is attached to the sewing machine with the foot controller plug. It sits on the floor and supplies power to the machine. The pedal often has a narrow end and a wider end. Place the pedal under your foot with the narrow (or hinged) side facing you and place your foot on top. the speed of the machine is controlled by how much you push the pedal. ⇓

sewing machine anatomy


And that’s about it!

Homework

So make sure you familiarize yourself with your machine. Use your machine manual, many new sewist tend to ignore the manual and most machine problems can be solved and even avoided if you’d just look in the manual.

If you have any Questions Comment down below.

Psstt. At the end of this course you will get a certificate if you show your work (In the Sewing School Group) for each class where homework is given.

The classes will be right here on my blog (for free 😉 ). Follow me via email, or Join my Face book group to be notified every time the class is posted.


 Join Tsibiah Israel’s Sewing School  –  Group on Facebook

Shalom Ladies MHNCB!

 

Tsibiah’s Sewing School Lesson 2 – Types of Sewing Machines/How to Buy a Sewing Machine

Shalom Israel MHNCB,

If your following this class, good to see you back again.  If your new, Shalom MHNCB Welcome to the class! If your new & need to catch up you can click here for the Class Directory.

In today’s lesson we are going to talk about the basic sewing machine that you should start with.

So let’s get on with the lesson

Now there are many sewing machines out there, but lets narrow it down to five (5) categories:

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  1. Basic Mechanical Sewing Machine. You should definitely start with one of these.⇓Tsibiah's Sewing School - Supplies 101 Sewing/Serger Machine                                             Tsibiah's Sewing School - Supplies 101 Sewing/Machine
  2. Computerized Sewing Machines. Instead of knobs and levers these sewing machines change stitches at the press of a button along with some other cool features. But are really expensive.$$ ⇓
  3. Embroidery Machines ⇓
  4. Quilting Machines and at the very bottom a Long Arm Quilting Machine ⇓
  5. Serger/Over lock Machine. For Seam Finishes. The 3 to 5 threads of the machine stitch 1 to 2 straight construction stitches while the remaining threads loop around the raw edge of the fabric which is cut by the machine’s knife at your set seam allowance. It gives a professional finish on the inside of a project. The stitch’s formation also allows threads to stretch, making it ideal for knit fabrics as well.  But as I’ve said earlier you don’t need a serger. A lot of high-end clothes aren’t finished with a serger instead they are finished with many seam finishes which are so easy to do I’ll link a video Here on seam finishes without a serger. ⇓

For a beginner It’s always suggested that you begin with # 1 a basic sewing machine, but it also depends on what kind of sewing you are going to be doing. Are you going to be quilting then you need a quilting machine, are you going to be embroidering then your going to need an embroidery machine, and so on and so forth. But for basic sewing (and for these classes) just a basic sewing machine is necessary. And by Basic I mean not all the cool buttons and features, all you need is a machine that sews.


If you’ve read my Bio you’d already know that I started with a terrible old fashion industrial machine which by terrible I mean a nightmare (It was like trying to sew with a chainsaw). Anyways after that, I got my moms sewing machine that she had in the basement it was a Brother LS 1217,which in my opinion is a really easy machine to work with (considering the nightmare I went through with the industrial machine lol). I’m not sure you can find that machine anywhere anymore. But Brother also came out with a great beginner machine that I find is easier to work with and that would be the Brother JX 2517 and I even taught my siblings how to sew on those machines. So it really is an easy machine to work with.

Now whichever brand you choose to buy is up to you. Now me I’ve only worked with Brother sewing machines so I can’t talk to you about Singer or Janome etc. While all sewing machine do basically the same thing some machine brands work very differently.


Buying A Sewing Machine

If your buying a sewing machine online, make sure it’s from a trusted source so you don’t end up with a crappy machine.

It’s better to buy a sewing machine in store, so that you can see the machine and test it out rather than buying online and deciding later you don’t really like the machine.

Please, Please, Please, Keep an eye out for Sales at your local crafting store like Joanns, Michaels, Hobby Lobby Etc.

There’s nothing worse than having to take out an arm and a leg for a pile of metal and plastic, look for bargains, sales, & Use Coupons (if you can).

As a beginner you should spend no more than about $60-$180 on a new sewing machine.

I bought my Brother Jx2517 Sewing Machine for $70 at Walmart. 😉

I can’t tell you which brand is the best to buy as there is no one perfect machine but I can give you some tips on how to choose the perfect sewing machine for you & what you should be considering & looking for while you’re machine shopping.


  • Skill Level
  • Sewing Style
  • Sewing Interests
  • Etc..

The first thing you should consider when machine shopping is,

What kind of sewing will I be doing? – Sewing Interests.

  • Will I be sewing Curtains, Jackets, Rugs, Upholstery, Decor towels, Stuffed animals, Heavy Thick Fabrics, Leather, Denim, etc…

Then you will need a Heavy Duty Machine.

  • Will I be sewing Clothes, Undergarments, Gloves, Cotton, Silks, etc…

Then you will need either a Basic Mechanical Sewing Machine OR a Basic Computerized Sewing Machine.

The kind of Sewing you intend on doing will determine what kind of sewing machine you need to buy $.


What is my sewing expertise? – Skill Level

If you are just getting started, and you’re not sure if you’ll really like sewing. You’re just testing it out, then you just need an inexpensive machine with just *4 Basic stitches,

*Straight Stitch 

*A Zig Zag Stitch 

*Backstitch 

 

&

*Buttonhole Function

It’s best if you can adjust the stitch Length & Width on your machine & Move the Needle Position to left or right and centered.

However if you plan on developing  your skills, you should get a machine that has the 4 basic stitches along with a wider range of stitches, accessories and functions.

¡Remember you can’t add Extra stitches and functions later, so think ahead!


If you already have a sewing machine, Do you like it? What features do you wish it could have? Do you want to replace your machine with a newer model or with similar features?

If you already have a machine and/or are planing to upgrade just think about what you would like your current machine to have such as,

  • Built in needle threader
  • Automatic End-Of-Stitch Features

  • Better lighting
  • Special Layered Fabric Feeding System

  • Easy buttonhole maker
  • Easy portability
  • Simplicity and ease of use
  • Auto-thread snipping
  • Programmable stitch patterns
  • Automatic rolled hems, seams, and other common sewing chores that need to be accomplished etc…

If you have been sewing for a while you know which features you would like to get on your next machine to make sewing easier and faster for more efficient sewing.

However if you are a beginner buying a basic sewing machine and sewing for a while will help you determine what features you would like if you ever plan on upgrading.

A good tip would be to borrow a sewing machine from a friend or relative, and practice sewing to see what features you would like your sewing machine to have. Also ask the person for their advise on purchasing a sewing machine.


What is my Price Range?

Whatever your budget, there is a machine that will give you hours of sewing satisfaction and suit your wants and needs. You can always start out with a modest machine and trade up as your sewing skills improve. If you have your heart set on a particular machine but can’t afford the newest version, check out the classified ads, garage sales, tag sales, estate sales, yard sales, online auction sites for bargains on a used machine. Get to know the machine before you shop so you will know if there are missing parts or feet.

Again Keep an eye out for Sales at your local craft store.

  • Get the best machine you can for what you can spend: Quality & Durability
  • Get a machine you can grow into, but not so big that you feel intimidated to use it or feel baffled by unnecessary features
  • Gather as much information as you can and choose the right machine for you. Don’t feel rushed or pressured. (As sometimes someone at the store will try and pressure you to buy a machine, don’t let that happen)

Where can I find out how to get the best from my machine?

The Sewing Machine’s Manual is key to getting to know your machine and get the best performance.

If your manual is missing, contact the manufacturer for a new one. To ensure that you get the right manual, include the model number of your machine with your request. The number is usually stamped on a small metal plate secured to the machine. On a free arm machine, the plate is located to the back of the machine; on a flat bed machine, it is located on the front.

In fact, sewing machine manufacturers estimate that 80% of all expensive repairs could be avoided if owners would read and follow the guidelines in the manual.

Tip: Visit a specialist retailer for advice on buying a sewing machine and take the chance to try out as many different models as possible. Testing the machine’s buttonhole function is a good way to check that it makes even, balanced stitches in all directions. Take a variety of fabric swatches with you when you test-sew.


Buying A Serger

Don’t Buy a Serger just yet!

If you don’t plan on sewing in the long run you don’t want to waste money on investing in one that you don’t plan on using. Again most professionals don’t even use a Serger. Here is a video on Seam Finishes without a serger.

Here are some things to consider when deciding if you should buying a Serger:

  • A Serger will not replace a conventional sewing machine. However it will save you the time that you would otherwise spend finishing off raw edges and is useful for creating special effects, so it is worth investing in one if you plan to do a lot of sewing.
  • Some of the less expensive sergers may stretch the fabric and pucker as you stitch. This is quite a common problem so be sure to try out several models before you buy.
  • Some Sergers use standard sewing machine needles, but many models use special needles, so make sure these are easy to find and purchase.
  • For more sewing options, choose a machine with differential feed. This will enable you, for example, to adjust the feed when working with knits to obtain a good flat seam, to speed up the feed to create a ruffle on single layer of woven fabric, or to create a waved edge effect.
  • There are now several lightweight inexpensive sergers on the market, but be very wary of these. A serger is designed to sew at quite a rate, so it needs some weight to keep it firm and steady on the table. A very light machine may start to jump around as you speed up, which can be dangerous.

Sewing Space.

Don’t buy a Ginormous sewing machine if you don’t have the space for it in your house. Make sure you have every thing organized.

You need a place designated for sewing, it doesn’t have to be fancy and elaborate but you have to have your sewing machine set up and ready to go whenever you feel like sewing. I remember when I began sewing I didn’t have a designated space so every time I began sewing I had to steal a table from somewhere and pull out my sewing machine from it’s case and it just became burdensome. So now that I have a designated sewing space my sewing machine is all set up and ready, so I can just get started on my project with no delay.

Also If your moving your sewing machine around a lot it could get dings and bangs and slowly wear out, so have a place for your sewing machine and don’t forget to cover it so it doesn’t get dusty. (We’ll have a class on Sewing Machine Maintenance)

  • Have good lighting
  • Set up your Iron & Ironing Board nearby
  • Have your sewing kit handy nearby
  • Find a comfy convenient corner where you can keep out your equipment and work in progress without disrupting the rest of the household.
  • Convenient electrical outlets for sewing machine and your iron, are essential.
  • Do hang up garments under construction between work sessions so that they do not crease, and use padded hangers to avoid hard creases and folds.
  • Ideally your working area should be chosen so you have the benefit of as much natural light as possible or use a lot of artificial lighting.
  • Keep your work space tidy and organized at all times use plastic bins, baskets, rolling carts etc..

Synopsis:

Features to  look for when machine shopping:

  • Free Arm
  • Automatic button holes
  • Assorted Presser Feet
  • Adjustable Foot Pressure
  • Adjustable Thread Tension
  • Adjustable Stitch Length & Width
  • Adjustable Machine Needle Position

Choose a machine within your price range, skill level (keeping in mind you can’t add Extra stitches and functions later), & Sewing Space.


So now that you know a little bit about Sewing Machines, hopefully that will help you in your machine buying process.

If you have any Questions Comment down below.

Psstt. At the end of this course you will get a certificate if you show your work (In the Sewing School Group) for each class where homework is given.

The classes will be right here on my blog (for free 😉 ). Follow me via email, or Join my Face book group to be notified every time the class is posted.

In our next lesson we will learn about, Sewing Machine Anatomy. See you in our next class! Enjoy, Study and Learn!


 Join Tsibiah Israel’s Sewing School  –  Group on Facebook

Shalom Ladies MHNCB!

Tsibiah’s Sewing School – Crash Course- Thread 101

Shalom MHNCB,

If your following this class, good to see you back again.  If your new, Shalom Welcome to the class! If you need to catch up you can click here to go to the Class Directory to catch up! .

Today class will be about: 

Thread 101

When starting a sewing project you always have to set up your sewing machine, and in doing so you have to thread your machine right. But what thread do you use? Thread is something you don’t really put much thought into you just put some all-purpose thread and call it a day. Yet your garment could come out a lot and I mean a lot more professional looking if you use:

  • a better quality thread
  • the appropriate thread for the project
  • thread that will not damage your fabric
  • and most importantly the weight of the thread, yes threads have weight

Yet the most important thing to remember when purchasing thread is to buy quality thread. How to tell the quality of thread? When your shopping for thread, pick up a spool of thread that’s priced really cheap (the kind of thread that priced “to good to be true”) and compare it to a more expensive brand name thread. You will notice the “fuzzies” on the cheaper thread that’s a sign that the thread is made from cheap and short fibers. This type of thread will fray and break as soon as you begin sewing with it. It’ll also let out a lot of bits of lint that will clog up your sewing machine.

There are different types of threads at the craft store and these are a few of the threads you might run into, and some you didn’t know you can use for sewing:

  1. A regular spool of thread: This is the thread you will see almost everywhere where there’s a sewing aisle and it comes in fibers such as: Polyester, cotton-covered polyester, and more. Make sure that you use the best quality cotton thread for your project.Thread
  2. Cone Thread: This thread is used for sergers/overlockers because they bring about 3,000 yards of thread, and sergers use a lot of thread. Usually they come in 100% polyester or 100% cotton.Tsibiah's Sewing School - Thread 101 - Cone Thread Serger/Over-Locker
  3. Buttonhole Thread: It’s a heavyweight thread that is commonly made with three-ply silk and is more durable than construction thread. You use this thread to sew buttons onto your projects.Tsibiah's Sewing School - Thread 101 - Buttonhole Thread
  4. Embroidery Thread/Floss: Used for embroidery but you can also use it to decorate your dress or poncho etc… There’s also machine embroidery which uses Embroidery Thread which is very different from Embroidery Floss. Embroidery floss has 6-strands of thread so you can choose how thick or thin you want your stitch to be, usually of cotton but also manufactured in silk, linen, and rayon
  5. Yarn: Used mostly for knitting but yes it can be used on a serger/overlocker machine. There are many varieties of yarn such as: Wool (Lamb’s wool, Merino wool, Pure new wool/virgin wool, Shetland wool, Icelandic wool, Washable wool), Fleece, Silk, cotton, linen, rayon, synthetic, Novelty (Ribbon, Boucle’, Chenille, Thick-Thin, Railroad ribbon, Faux fur) Specialty (Tweed, Heather, Marled(ragg) Variegated) and the list goes on and on. In order to use it on a serger/overlocker machine the yarn has to be smooth,and tightly twisted to feed evenly through the machine. It also must be fine enough (small/thin enough, not chunky yarn) to thread through the eye of the upper looper easily and strong enough to feed through the thread guides. Yarn tends to stretch as it is sewn, so you might have to loosen the thread tension completely.
  6. Decorative Threads such as: Fine monofilament nylon, Top stitching thread, Metallic threads, Woolly Nylon Thread, Rayon and silk, Crochet thread, Pearl cotton (which is also used for embroidery) Ribbon up to 1/4″ (6 mm) wide can be used if it’s lightweight, soft and pliable, such as ribbons designed for knitting. You may also find knitting ribbon on spools, cards, or cones. It’s available in acrylic, cotton rayon, and silk. Polyester ribbon is usually not pliable enough to be used in the looper, but can be laid flat and over edged with a serged stitch for a decorative effect.

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  7. Elastic Thread: Used for shirring  Check out this video on how to sew shirring.
  8. Jute and Twine, Rope, Pastele Thread: Jute and Twine can be used for sewing upholstery as well as piping/cording. Rope can be used to make a rope baskets and used as piping/cording  etc.. Pastele Thread can be used for gathering fabric etc..

Yet there are many more types of thread out there that you can incorporate into sewing. The options are endless.


Don’t forget to study and memorize as much as you can & take notes.

∴Homework∴

Test out & Play with different kinds of thread without breaking your machine 😉

  • Make your own piping
  • Shirr a piece of square fabric,  8 X 8″ Square
  • Take pics & upload them to the sewing group with the hashtag #Tsibiahisraelsewingschoolhomework

Psstt. At the end of this course you will get a certificate if you show your work (In the Sewing School Group) for each class where homework is given.

The classes will be right here on my blog (for free). Follow me via email, or Join my Face book group to be notified every time the class is posted.


 Join Tsibiah Israel’s Sewing School  –  Group on Facebook

Shalom Ladies MHNCB!

Tsibiah’s Sewing School – Lesson 1 Pt. 1 Basic Sewing Kit – An Israelite Seamstress Series

Shalom Israel MHNCB

In this lesson we are going to go over the basic sewing tools that you will need to get for sewing school and for sewing in general.

Let’s Begin!

  1. Fabric Scissors
  2. Paper Scissors; which ever brand you choose to go with is up to you and your pocket as fabric scissors tend to be on the pricey side, but you will need fabric scissors designated for only fabric. Never use your fabric scissors for paper or visa versa. Using fabric scissors for paper will dull your fabric scissors, and using your paper scissors for fabric will damage your fabric.
  3. Thread; begin with a basic black and white once you begin sewing garments you can expand your thread collection.Tsibiah's Sewing School - Basic Sewing Kit
  4. Pins & Pincushion; the pins with the colored ball tips are the best ones to begin with, along with the classic tomato pin cushion.
  5. Needles; Hand Sewing Needles & Machine Sewing Needles; machine needles come in many size and for many fabrics, start with a universal pack, and a basic hand sewing needle set.
  6. Bobbins; depending on the machine you’ll either buy the plastic bobbins or the metal bobbins, also check which size bobbins your machine uses.
  7. Measuring Tape; make sure to buy the Fiber-Glass plastic ones not the fabric ones,as they will stretch and disfigure.
  8. Seam Ripper you may want to buy at least 3 of these as they tend to dull out from much use. 
  9. Marking Tools; Tailors Chalk and/or Fabric Marker; depending on your preference, I prefer chalk cause sometimes the fabric marker might not come off your fabric. I’ve had a bad experience with fabric markers in the past.

 

Optional helpful tools:

  1. Magnetic Seam Guide; helps you cheat when pratice sewing.Tsibiah's Sewing School - Basic Sewing Kit
  2. Sliding Seam Gauge

Tsibiah's Sewing School - Basic Sewing Kit

Check out Crafty Gemini’s Must-Have Beginner Sewing Supplies Video


 ∴Organizing and storing your sewing supplies∴

I’ll touch on this briefly as we are going to have a class on staying organized. There are many ways to store your sewing supplies. You can check out my post on the many ways of storing your sewing supplies Here and the way I store my sewing supplies Here.

Here are ideas and some inspiration on how to store and organize your sewing supplies.

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And if you are really serious about sewing you might be considering a sewing studio or a corner of your room designated for sewing, here is some inspiration for ya.


Shalom MHNCB

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Tsibiah’s Sewing School 101 – Intro – An Israelite Seamstress Series

Tsibiah’s Sewing School

Shalom Ladies MHNCB,

So as a Seamstress wanting to share everything I know about sewing I decided to put together this sewing course for you ladies so that you to can learn the art of sewing. I’m putting this series together cause I’ve had quite a bit of sisters asking me to teach them to sew so I decided this series would be a great place to start.

We’ll go over the basics of the basics, and the tip and tricks of the ‘pros’. You will be given homework assignments, tests, and loads of fun and headaches.

So without further a do…

Welcome to Tsibiah’s Sewing School

So you’ve decided you want to sew but you don’t really know what sewing’s all about, Or you really need to sew on your fringes and have no idea where to start. Or you might think it’s so easy you can learn “Finger Snap” like that. Well I’m here not to scare you away  but to give you the 411/101 on sewing.

Before we continue with this course here are some things you need to know;

  1. Sewing can be a business or a hobby. For some the idea of turning their hobby into a business can be daunting and for others it’s their passion to sew for others or for profit.
  2. It’s never to late to learn how to sew. If you didn’t learn to sew when you where young you can still learn no matter how old you are. Age ain’t nuttin but a number Baby!
  3. Learning to Sew can be expensive, cheap, or free! Expensive, you could spend hundreds or thousands of dollars on a fashion sewing course. Cheap/Affordable, you can take a low-cost fashion course online or at a local Joanns or sewing shop. Freego back to basics and ask wela to teach you or your mom, aunt, relative, or a sister who knows how to sew to teach you. Or You Tube. There are many channels and websites online that can teach you for free. (like me uh-um….)
  4. You don’t need an expensive high-tech sewing machine to sew. If you don’t have a sewing machine and are planning to buy one, you don’t need an expensive machine just a basic machine can do almost everything you need as a beginner and intermediate sewist. Lesson 2 will cover all the info you need on how to choose a sewing machine.
  5. You don’t need a whole bunch of supplies and gadgets to sew. You may watch a lot of videos and tutorials with seamstresses and tailors using all those cool gadgets that you don’t know the name to. Like tailors ham or clapper, yardstick compass, yatta yatta yatta. It is nice to play with all those gadgets. But let me tell you, You don’t need all those things to sew you just need the basics which is really what every seamstress or tailor needs. The basics!
  6. Sometimes you might not want or need a sewing machine. You can sew by hand which is slower but it can be done and there’s so many things that a sewing machine can’t do which is where hand sewing comes in. Although sewing will be a whole lot quicker with a sewing machine. Now I’m not saying don’t buy a sewing machine but it’s really a personal preference. Hand sew or Machine sew.
  7. Almost everybody sews (or has to anyways) Whether it’s a tear in their clothes, or a rip in their sweater, they need to hem their jeans, a button popped off,  their clothes don’t fit right, they need their fringes/blue border sewn on, or some other reason. (People need sewing in their life one way or another) 😉
  8. Once you know how to sew, people will come knocking at your door for something. Yep I get this all the time, people will come asking me to alter their clothes or sew on fringes/blue border etc.. while some people find it annoying, I find it’s a good way to keep my skills sharp. Cause you never know what the person might need, it’s always something different to work/practice on.
  9. Sewing is something that gets better over time, like wine. Simple as that. You need to constantly well not constantly but often make sure your skills are not being forgotten and be sure to fine tune them. Have a journal handy and take notes while your sewing and working on a project. This is a class. This is not something you’ll learn overnight. You need to Practice. Poke yourself by mistake and Practice some more. Now it’s not going to take forever to get real good at sewing but it does take time. Don’t worry you’ll be a Pro in no time. (Well some time) But in no time.
  10. Sewing is about expressing yourself. It’s an amazing feeling you get every time you finish your last stitch, and what you just made can be stylishly worn or used by your self or another person. I can’t explain the pain and suffering and headaches and (you get the point) every seamstress goes through when sewing, but when your finished it’s like something amazing happens to that pile of fabric. All that pain you went through just disappears (sometimes) and you forget all the times you poked and stabbed your fingers, or burned your self with that iron, or when your where cutting your fabric with your Rotary Cutter and almost sliced your finger off. I’m making this kinda traumatizing ain’t I. Any ways the finished product is like the best part of sewing because then you can show it off to everybody, and you feel so proud of yourself. Then start on another project. The cycle continues….
  11. Sewing is an Israelite woman’s best friend. Sisters you know we have ample curves cough, cough  and to find modest clothing to suit our shapely figure is not easy to find. It’ll fit in one area but not the other. Sewing is the best way to beat around the bush and avoid going to 20 stores and buying nothing because nothing fits you  Ooohh the struggle. Wearing something you’ve sewn for yourself that’s comfortable and actually your size is always preferred.

Don’t forget to ask questions. This is School right so if you have any questions I will do my best to answer them. I want to make this classroom an open door class room so if you have any questions or want to learn a certain topic on sewing don’t hesitate to ask. This is an open door classroom;)


∴Class Syllabus∴

Lesson 1:  Sewing Basics

  •      Basic Sewing Kit 
  •      Pins, Needles, and Thread
  •      Cutting Tools and other Tools 
  •      The Importance of Pressing 
  •      Staying Organized 

Lesson 2: Your Sewing Machine

  •     Types of Sewing Machines
  •     Anatomy of a Sewing Machine
  •     Bobbin Problems – The Perfect Stitch
  •     Maintenance
  •     Your first stitch
  •     Sewing Machine Maintenance Kit

Lesson 3 – Fabric

  •     Types of Fabric
  •     Warp, weft, nap, right vs. wrong side
  •     Choosing fabric for your garment
  •     Tricky Fabrics to sew
  •     Fabric Organization

Lesson 4 – All About Patterns

  •      Choosing a Pattern
  •      Deciphering the Pattern Envelope
  •      Fabric plus the extras
  •      Layout deciphered
  •      Read a basic pattern
  •      Pattern Organization

Lesson 5 – Hand Sewing

  •     Basting
  •     Buttons
  •     Decorative Touches

Lesson 6 – Your First Project

Lesson 7 Troubleshooting

Lesson 8 – Sewing Secrets

Lesson 9 – Creative Sewing Ideas

Lesson 10 – Clothing Care & Repair

Lesson 11 – Sewing Lingo

 

Keep an eye out for ◊Crash Courses◊


As I said earlier you will get Homework, and have loads of fun!

Psstt. At the end of this course you will get a certificate if you show your work (In the Sewing School Group) for each class where homework is given.

The classes will be right here on my blog (for free). Follow me via email, or Join my Face book group to be notified every time the class is posted.


 Join Tsibiah Israel’s Sewing School  –  Group on Facebook

Shalom Ladies MHNCB!

 

Storing Your Sewing Supplies

 

Shalom Sisters MHNCB,

When beginners search for a way to store their sewing supplies/notions/stuff, it could be rather daunting where your going to put all this amazing stuff. So I’m going to show you a list of some of the many ways you can put all your sewing supplies into a wonderful sewing kit.

Ever since I started sewing I’ve had this thing where I just love sewing kits, whether it be a wooden sewing box or a toolbox used as a sewing box. It doesn’t matter I just have this little maña/habit of drooling over sewing kits.

Wanna see whats in my sewing kit? Click → Here.


At the top of my list and my most favorite way of storing sewing supplies is wooden sewing boxes, there are so many variations and styles.

 

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You can also use,

  • Suitcases
  • Tackle Boxes/ Tool Boxes (which is where I have mine currently check it out Here)
  • Lunch Boxes
  • Mason Jars
  • Egg Cartons
  • Plastic Stackable Clear Containers
  • Outing Baskets
  • Eyeglass Cases

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  • Cookie Tins (Remember Those;)

 

I must confess I did have cookie tin sewing kits, it’s so cute and has this sort of vintage feel to it I love the simplicity of them 😉 You can check out my cookie tin sewing kits Here.

Tin Box Sewing Kit
Tin Box Sewing Kit

 

I love tin boxes and mason jar kits they’re so cute and easy to make, You can click Here for Mason Jar sewing kit tutorial ,and a video tutorial Here. Click Here  for a tin box tutorial.

Click Here for the Tin Box sewing kit tutorial.

Click Here for egg carton sewing kit tutorial.

You can even make a little portable Tooth Floss container sewing kit, so cool check it out Here.

Wherever you choose to keep your sewing supplies there are some things to keep in mind:

  1. It must be organized and clean.
  2. Ease of reach during projects .
  3. Not to small so all your stuff can fit yet not too big.
  4. It’s better if your kit is portable, so that if you need to take it with you anywhere you can just grab and go. Unless you’re not going to take it anywhere.
  5. You enjoy looking at it, I can’t tell you how many times I go into my sewing room just to look at my sewing kit and get inspiration.

 

Shalom MHNCB, Until Next Time!

 

 

 

 

 

Disclaimer: I own none of the pictures above. They're just pictures I found on 
the web, If you own any of the pictures above contact me so I can link it to 
your blog/website ;)

 

Tag: Whats In My Sewing Kit?

Shalom Sisters MHNCB,

So this tag has been going around for a while, and I thought It would be very educational. So I’m going to show you what I have in my sewing kit. I’ll also be sharing with you the best tools in my sewing kit that I can’t sew without, and ones that you really don’t need to waste your money on.

Now since I started sewing I’ve constantly moved my sewing supplies around starting from a drawer, to a pencil bag, then a cardboard box to a wooden jewelry box then cookie tins, and now to a tool box and so far I’m pretty happy with the tool box. I don’t know why but I have this thing where I like to play around with my sewing supplies, and this mainly comes from me seeing other bloggers on the internet, as well as Pinterest posts, YouTube videos etc. I like to try new things!

This is where I previously had my sewing supplies:

I had to use two tins because one wasn’t big enough to hold all the supplies. 😉

I just Looooove cookie tin sewing kits,

#1 ↑ (the first row) Is a Vintage Cookie Tin I got from my wela, and when I say vintage I really mean vintage, (sorry wela) and

#2 ↑ (the second row) Is a  Danish Butter Cookie Tin I got from the grocery store because all my supplies didn’t fit in the vintage cookie tin. I really wanted the Royal Dansk Tin but I couldn’t find it any where.

Royal Dansk Sewing Kit
Royal Dansk is sort of like an official staple when it comes to cookie tin sewing kits.

So without further a do, lets take a look in my (current) sewing kit  ↓

Now this is a tool box I got at Walmart for $6.99, It has a lot of space inside and it comes with a removable tray, which helps hold all the tiny stuff. ↓

Tool Box Sewing Kit

 

Take A Peek Into My Tool Box Sewing Kit

Curious? Lets look inside!

Tool Box Sewing Kit With A Tray

Lets start with the cutting tools:

Cutting Tools
Cutting Tools

 

  1. Singer 45 mm Rotary Cutter with Replacement Blades, I love my rotary cutter. It saves you a lot of time, but you also have to be careful not to accidentally slice yourself. Because boy do those cuts hurt. I would definitely recommend one for a (careful) beginner.
  2. SY Fabric scissors, now these fabric scissors I got at IKEA and let me tell you they cut amazingly all the way to the tip. Now when your beginning to sew I definitely suggest a good pair of fabric scissors that are very sharp, to cut your fabric neatly and not waste time, because if the scissors are dull or not meant for fabric you’re gonna have a hard time cutting.
  3. SY Pinking Shears, I also got these at IKEA. These scissors are called pinking because instead of cutting a straight line, the blades cut a zig zag. Now pinking shears are used mainly for when you don’t have a serger/overlock machine, to finish the edges of the fabric so they don’t fray, and other times for a decorative effect. Now for a beginner I’d suggest getting a pair of pinking shears or using your sewing machine to finish the edges, because a serger/overlocker is pretty expensive. Also depending on what your sewing sometimes a serger is not necessary at all. There are many ways to finish your seams without serger, check out this tutorial to find out what pinking shears are in detail and how to use them and check out this tutorial where Tasha shows you how to professionally finish your seams without a serger.
  4. 4In & 8.5In Singer Comfort Grip Scissor Set, Same as number 2. plain ol’ fabric scissors. These are my very first pair of fabric shears. It came in a set with a tiny pair of snip scissors.

  5. Paper/pattern cutting scissors, I’m sure you’ve heard this one before. NEVER USE YOUR FABRIC SHEARS FOR CUTTING PAPER…. EVER! Cutting paper using your fabric shears will result in dull fabric shears, so make sure you have a pair of paper cutting scissors. You can even get them at the Dollar Store, just don’t use the fabric shears for paper.

Along with the Fabric Shears we have Snipping Tools:

Snipping Tools
Snipping Tools
  1. Fiskars Razor Edge Micro-Tip Easy Action Shears (6″), Now these wonderful scissors are from Walmart (regular price $17.19) but I got them for $3.00 on clearance. I like finding deals like that! I definitely recommend these for snipping threads and also for when you don’t have enough to buy fringes you can just add your border of blue and “snip” your fringes on.
  2. Pro Series Thread Snips-5″, these are my very first pair of thread snips, I do recommend you get a good pair of thread snips they help a lot instead of grabbing your big pair of fabric shears just to cut a little piece of thread.

  3. 4In & 8.5In Singer Comfort Grip Scissor Set, This is the one that came along with the pink fabric shears as shown in the cutting tools picture above.

  4. Now these scissors I got them at the grocery store and if there is any advise I could give you ladies it would be, never buy sewing supplies at a grocery store. I got these for $4.99 and they are the cheapest pair of sewing scissor that I have ever bought, waste of money. They’re so cheap they don’t cut through fabric, thread, or even paper, they’re just basically sitting in my sewing box as decoration.
  5. These are just those tiny little scissors that come with those little sewing kits like at the dollar store. I have many more of these flying around my sewing room, but its kinda hard to catch ’em.

Next I’ll Show you the marking tools:

Marking Tools
Marking Tools
  1. Tailor’s Chalk, these come in many colors, and some come with a holder/stand. Now me personally I love chalk  as a marking tool because unlike marking pens most of the time you don’t have to worry about the chalk not coming off cause it just dusts off.
  2. Dritz Quilting Chalk Cartridge Set, This is a must have for me as you can see the tailor’s chalk is still in the packaging because once I found out about the chalk pen I was in love with it! I definitely recommend this marking tool for beginners.It’s  $15.99 at Joanns, but I used a coupon and only paid $9.99. It comes with the pen itself, chalk refills, and a sharpener cause after a while of using the pen the tip gets dull.
  3. Mark-B-Gone Marking Pen, I use this pen more for non clothing fabric (like arts and crafts) than on fabric for clothing because I was making cute nightgowns for my siblings and they where sort of ruined because the marking from the pen wouldn’t wash of even after 2 washes and hand washing so I don’t use marking pens. Cause that was sort of nightmare after all that hard work, those ugly markings that wouldn’t wash off.
  4. Prym Dritz Dual Purpose Twin Marking Pens, again just like the Mark-B-Gone Pen I wouldn’t use this pen for clothing fabrics, after my first experience with a marking pen I wouldn’t risk that again. Now I’m not saying marking pens are horrible but just use caution when using marking pens. But I do use my marking pens for non clothing fabric crafts.

  5. EZ Quilting Marking Pencil Value Pack 3 pc. Washout Red, Blue & White I like chalk very much as you can see, but as for these chalk pencils for some reason I can’t get them to mark on the fabric. As you can tell their still fairly new and sharp because they just won’t leave any mark on the fabric. I really don’t know what to say about these?
  6. Crayola Crayons, When I began to sew I had to use what I had and that was crayons and chalkboard chalk. So as I went along sewing since the crayon has wax it wouldn’t come of but hey a lesson learned. So I would definitely recommend that you don’t use regular crayons on fabric but if you like coloring on fabric try, Crayola’s Fabric Crayons. I can’t wait to try them out!
  7. And lastly for the marking tools I have a sharpie, not for anything particular but you never know when you might need one. So its good to have one on hand.

 

Next we also have a few randoms:

Dressmaking Paper and Knitting gauge

  1. Dressmakers Tracing Paper
  2. Tracing Wheel, you use this with the tracing paper
  3. Knitting Gauge, I’m sure I have all my knitting supplies floating around the room as you can see I have knitting supplies here and there in my sewing box.

Next we have Measuring Tools:

Measuring Tools
Measuring Tools
  1. Sewing Gauge, I love these they’re so helpful. The little blue (left) and purple (right) sliders move to the designated measurement. Definitely a must have for your sewing kit.

  2. Yellow Adhesive Measuring Tape, I learned this tip from Niler Taylor on You Tube check it out Here
  3. Regular Ol’ Measuring Tape
  4. Flexible Stainless Steel Ruler, important to have if you do pattern alterations. I got it at Home Depot for about $6. Hardware stores tend to have little sewing surprises so always keep an eye out when your at the hardware store.
  5. More  Measuring Tapes, its good to have a couple just in case you misplace one and can’t find it.

 

Next we have Seam Rippers:

Seam Ripper Tools
Seam Ripping Tools

 

  1. Singer Seam Ripper, this is my very first seam ripper.I got it at Joanns for $2.99. It’s dull now and doesn’t cut thread good anymore but that’s why I got #2
  2. Seam Ripper, just a plain ol’ 99¢ seam ripper from walmart. But let me say it works great! Even though it was 99¢ it does a lot better than my $2.99 Singer Seam Ripper.
  3. X Acto Knife, Everyone should definitely have one of these in their sewing kit. Sometimes to speed things up I’ll use an X Acto Knife in place of a traditional seam ripper. But be careful you don’t want to make a hole on your fabric.

 

Next in the toolbox we have Pins and Pincushions:

Pins and Pincushions
Pins and Pincushions
  1. Magnetic Pin Holder, never really use it but its handy to have for those little metal odds and ends.
  2. Pleating Pins, amazing to use obviously when your making pleats cause you can iron over them without worrying about melting the colorful ball tips.
  3. Singer Pearilzed Head Straight Pins On Wheel, I haven’t used these yet, I got one from my wela and one from my mom. But they’re so old I doubt they even pin good anymore.
  4. DIY Mason Jar Pin Cushion, Now this is just a mason jar that I got from my wela, and diy’ed it into a pin cushion. I also store all my buttons in there too, Check out this tutorial on You Tube from Clothespindolls on how to make one. I use this the most
  5. A Kitty Cat Pincushion I got from Wela, I love this pincushion its my all time favorite. Its also where I store my snap on wrist pin cushion #6
  6. Singer Slap On Wrist Pin Cushion, I used to use this one alot when I began sewing, comes in real handy.


 

Next we have Sewing Machine Needles:

Sewing Machine Needles
Sewing Machine Needles
  1. Universal Sewing Machine Needles, the green and orange pack came with my sewing machine
  2. Schmetz  Universal Twin Needles and the orange pack twin needles, are great for doing a coverstitch.
  3. Schmetz Universal Sewing Machine Needles, good to have a lot of these packs.
  4. Schmetz Stretch Needles, good for stretchy elastic like fabrics like spandex or lycra
  5. Schmetz Jersey Needles, good for knit fabrics.

Its always a good idea to have many varieties of needles on hand so that you don’t have to postpone your project or stop it all together.


 

Next we have Hand Sewing Needles:

Hand Sewing Needles
Hand Sewing Needles

 

  1. Dritz Homecraft Needles, these are very handy to have around the house. This pack includes needles for: Canvas, Carpet, Leather, Sack, Sail, and two for Upholstery.
  2. Leather Needles, I’ve never really used them because I don’t really sew or wear leather, but I have them just in case.
  3. Doll Needles, I once made dolls just for fun when I began to sew and these needles came in very handy.
  4. Decorators Needles, now these needles are for sewing buttons on to pillows, It’s called tufting. It gives the pillows a cute finish
  5. Upholstery Curved Needles, are used for slip-stitching cushions and good to have if your sofas have a rip it’s a good quick fix.
  6. Quilters Betweens, don’t really use them but have just in case. For, I don’t know what but just in case.
  7. Basting Needles, Now these I use quite often when sewing garments. They help when basting something in place for a moment while you get the garment to the sewing machine.

 

Next in the toolbox we have Presser Feet:

My Sewing Machine Presser Feet
Sewing/Serger Machine Presser Feet
  1. Brother SA 169 Walking Foot, I love this presser foot. I use it for stretch knits and stretchy fabrics in general, it helps not to get those ruffles on your fabric. Such as when you sew stretchy fabrics with a regular presser foot.
  2. Zipper Foot, used for sewing on zippers
  3. Spool Pin, for holding an extra spool of thread when your sewing with a twin needle.
  4. Darning Plate, for sewing on buttons with your sewing machine.
  5. Brother 1034D Blind Stitch Foot, creates almost invisible hems.
  6. Brother 104D Ruffler Foot, creates beautiful ruffles I love this foot.

 

Next we have: Sewing/Serger Machine Maintenance Tools:

Sewing/Serger Machine Maintenance Tools
Sewing/Serger Machine Maintenance Tools

Its important to constantly keep an eye on the maintenance of your machine for the best results on your garments. These are the tools I use to keep my machine in tip top shape. Along with some accessories for my machines.

  1. Dimes and pennies, Sometime there might be a screw here and there so small on your machine, and you might not have a screw driver that certain size so they tend to come in handy.
  2. Spool Caps, (for my serger)
  3. Nail Clippers, you might not believe it but it does come in handy
  4. An L Screw Driver, (or at least that’s what I call the tool) this is the tool I use for replacing the needles on my serger.
  5. Basic Screw Driver
  6. Magnetic Seam Guide, this little guy I don’t use that often but it was sort of a trainer for me to learn my measurements on my sewing machine. Definitely recommend one of these for a beginner, It’ll so help you with you with “Seam Allowance”.
  7. Bias Tape Maker, this tool/accessory helps you make bias tape in literally under 2 minutes check out this tutorial on how to use a Bias Tape Maker.
  8. Bodkin, this tool makes it easy to slide elastic in a casing.
  9. Needle Threader, good to have a couple of these on hand they tend to break easily.
  10. Thread Nets, (serger) I use these thread nets on my serger whenever I’m using specialty thread. Now specialty thread tends to be slippery so it tends to tangle, so the thread nets prevent that from happening
  11. Tweezers, these are usefull for when a string of thread gets stuck in your sewing machine and your fingers are to big to get it out. Now I got a pack of four from the dollar store years ago and decided to just add them to my sewing box when I was constantly using them for sewing purposes.
  12. Plastic Haired Brush, to get the lint out of your machines.
  13. Soft Haired Painting Brush, Now I definitely recommend a soft haired brush for removing the lint out of your sewing machine instead of a plastic haired brush. The soft haired brush just vaccumes the lint while the plastic just moves it around, and in some instances pushes the lint further into the machine which could be damaging to your machine.
  14. A Necchi Machine Lint Brush.
  15. A bigger screw driver.
  16. Crochet Needles, to get into those hard to reach places.
  17. Point Turner and Seam Creaser, this I use when I have to push out a corner on a bag or anything  that requires me to push out a corner.
  18. Nail File, Sometimes your needle plate might get literally stabbed by the needle accidentally and make a indent on the plate causing the thread to sometimes tangle. So a nail file will sand down the the edge a make it smooth again.

 

Next we have: Seam and Button Finishes:

Seam Finishes and Button Finishes
Seam Finishes and Button Finishes
  1. Fray Check, now I don’t really use fray check because the smell is so strong! I would always get headaches every time I used it but I wouldn’t really get rid of it because you never know when you might need it.
  2. Clear Nail Polish, I always have a bottle of this on hand when ever sewing buttons. I just dab a little (very little) on the top of the button where the thread is exposed, so that it will last on the shirt a lot longer.

 

Next we have: Sewing/Serger Machine Oil

Sewing/Serger Machine Oil
Sewing/Serger Machine Oil

For general sewing machine maintenance and less household hinge squeakiness everyone should have a bottle of sewing machine oil or hinge oil. Also if it gets kinda hard to ‘open and close’ your scissors put a little dab on the screw and in between where the scissors are rubbing against each other and viola! Your scissors can open and close smoothly. Just don’t forget to wipe the excess oil off the scissors so the oil  doesn’t go everywhere.


 

Lastly we have just Random Its and Bits In My Sewing Kit:

Random Its and Bits In My Sewing Kit

  1. Hilo De Pasteles, now if you don’t know what Pasteles are your missing out on a lot, Its a dish from the Tribe of Ephraim. Its so delicious.They’re many way to make pasteles, anyways I use the hilo for when I’m gathering fabric. It just makes gathering the fabric so much easier.                                                                                                    (By the way pasteles are made with pork but my mom switches the pork for beef)
  2. Pattern Weights, I made these from a tutorial by The Crafty Gemini.
  3. Clover Knitting Row Counter, Before I began sewing I was an avid knitter so this is one thing from my knitting kit that I (don’t know why) but I keep in my sewing kit.
  4. Hooks and Eyes

 

Well that’s about it for my sewing box,

My Sewing Tool Box

Thanks for watching!!

But wait there’s more…..

Check out some great videos for more inspiration/ideas on storing your sewing supplies!

Well this is a tag right?, so I would like to tag a few of my favorite Sewing/Fashionistas to see what they have in their sewing kit.

Shalom! Until Next Time!